So you or your client have found a home in a great area in the client's price range. Only one problem: it's in bad shape. The HVAC system is 50 years old, the roof is 40 years old and the windows may as well not even be closed. Plus the kitchen has vinyl floors in 3 different patterns and the counters are all laminate with burns and holes and scars.
Not to fear! Meet the FHA 203K Streamlined renovation loan.
Eligible Improvements Virtually any kind of improvement is eligible provided it becomes a permanent part of the real property and adds value.
Additions to the structure
Kitchen or bath remodels
Finished basement or attic
Patios, decks or terraces
Roofing and landscaping
Safety, energy efficiency and electrical upgrades
Handicapped accessibility improvements
Luxuryitems are not eligible
Swimming pools, hot tubs, tennis courts, gazebos, barbecue pits, saunas or alterations to support commercial use
The maximum loan amount must be within the FHA loan amount maximum for the MSA where the home is located and must include the purchase price and the renovation amount. The maximum renovation amount is $35,000 and the minimum is $5,000. Under $5,000 we can do with an escrow of repair funds. A minimum of 10% contingency reserve is required and must also fit into the FHA loan maximums for the area where the property is located. (Any balance remaining on the contingency will be applied to the principal balance and may not be used for additional repairs.)
Yes, it takes a little longer to close an FHA203k Streamline loan than it does to close a standard FHA loan. If you are an agent and you are concerned about that extra couple of weeks just think of it this way: You may make a sale you would not have otherwise made. You may help a buyer get into a home in the area where they wanted to live instead of where they "had" to live. You can be a real hero for someone.
If you are in Georgia I can help you with the necessary paperwork and give you a short class in how to use the FHA 203K Streamline Rehab loan to purchase, sell or represent homes in today's economy. Never hesitate to call me at any time and I'll be happy to answer your questions.
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
"They just keep on changing these rules, don't they?" It was an honest question from a frustrated agent.
Here is what I do know: FHA Concentration can shoot you in the foot. HUD Mortgagee Letter 2009-46B in Section 1 Subsection V Paragraph 10 parts a, b and c tells us about FHA Concentration and how to see it coming from miles away. Keep in mind you can still get financing in developments which have reached the maximum concentration levels specified by HUD for FHA insured loans but not with FHA.
The easies rule to remember is thirty percent (30%). If the project development (not phase) has 30% or more of the available units financed with an FHA insured mortgage there will be no further issuance of FHA case numbers in that project. In a nutshell this means there will be no more FHA loans issued for those condominiums until the concentration level again falls below 30%.
For condominiums consisting of three or fewer units only one unit may be financed with an FHA insured loan. With condo projects of four or more units the 30% rule comes in to play. If you are math challenged just remember for every 10 units in the project only 3 can be financed with an FHA insured loan.
So remember, in Georgia and especially the metro Atlanta area, even if I have not yet closed a condo loan in your new or existing condo project I know a few things about condos. This might be the first time you and I have ever met but one look at my gray hair and you'll know I didn't just step off the chicken farm yesterday.
I do condo loans. Give me a call and let's chat then let's get your loan closed. Right Mrs. Martin? (Mrs. Martin came to me with a very unusual and challenging condo loan and we are closing on Friday. No other lender she worked with including banks with two or three words in their name could get it done for her.)
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
"Oh I don't want to mess with all that trouble", the agent said to me during a phone conversation. She meant she did not want to mess with selling a home that needed a new roof, some plumbing repair, new carpet and new appliances which I could finance into the loan amount.
I asked, "why not? What trouble?"
It seems she had a few misunderstandings about how this powerful purchase loan works. The truth is it doesn't involve any extra work for her than a regular FHA loan. What it does it take an unsellable home and turn it into a sale. Conventional loans do not allow for some of these types of repairs on an "as is" home sale. Even there it increases the sale amount by the mere virtue of dealing with a homeowner financing the property instead of an investor paying cash for the property.
The FHA 203k Streamline purchase loan is perfect for the large majority of homes in the US. Any home that qualifies for a standard FHA home loan, the 203b, also qualifies for the FHA 203k if it needs less than $35,000 in non-structural upgrades or repairs. So what CAN you do with an FHA 203k loan?
Repair or replacement of roofs, gutters and downspouts
Upgrade of plumbing and electrical systems
New flooring or floor covering
Exterior decks, patios and porches
Minor remodeling (no structural such as room additions)
Paint and wall covering
Weatherization including storm windows, storm doors, insulation and weather stripping
Purchase and installation of new appliances
Disability access improvements interior and exterior
Basement finishing and remodeling
Basement and crawl space moisture control and waterproofing
Window and door replacement
Exterior residing such as replacing old, defective siding
Septic system or well repair or replacement
One caveat which we don't understand is the FHA 203k Streamline does not allow for completion of a home which was started in construction but not completed. This is one they really need to take a look at because I get at least one call every month or so with this exact question which tells me others get it, too!
Repairs cannot take any longer than 6 months and there are only 2 draws available regardless of how much the contractor(s) beg. Your contractor will need to be able to fund the job for up to 60 days out of pocket while they wait on the draw from the bank.
Most lenders require the contractor to be licensed in the state where the property is and do not allow the home owner/buyer to do the work their self. You *may* be able to find a lender who will allow the work to be owner performed *if* the owner can prove they are a professional in that type of work. My company does not allow this.
Plan on a little extra time to close these loans because of the necessary underwriting. There are a few documents extra which are needed which I will not disclose here because while I enjoy helping the general public I have to be careful about educating my competitor's and their inexperienced loan officers.
When you need an FHA 203k (or any other mortgage) call me. My team is the best of the best and if it can be done we'll get it done or let you know as soon as we know differently.
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
HIGHLIGHTS ONLY - I don't want to distribute incorrect information so if you have a viable correction please make it known in the comments.
HR 3458 "The Worker, Home Ownership and Business Assistance Act of 2009"
While it is called an "Extension and Modification of the First-Time Homebuyer's Tax Credit" it really is an extension and overhaul or re-construction. Modified doesn't seem to cover it. If you are interested the full text of the Resolution signed into law is found at this link on Thomas Library of Congress. (This is also based on S 1678 dated September 16, 2009 and passed unanimously in the Senate.)
All the good stuff related to the Tax Credit seems to be found in Sections 11 and 12. I am not interested in sharing my political opinion in this post (had to clarify this post) but working with you to develop a fuller and more accurate understanding of this new law. We know the second version of the First Time Homebuyer's Tax Credit was scheduled to end with homes purchased, and closed on, before December 1, 2009. The key word at that time was "closed". The newest version has a different twist which we will examine. So, here we go line by line where application matters to our common clients:
Section 11(a)(1)(A) extended to May 1, 2010
Section 11(a)(2)EXCEPTION IN CASE OF BINDING CONTRACT - if the binding contract is entered BEFORE May 1, 2010 then the closing must occur BEFORE July 1, 2010
Section 11(b)(6)EXCEPTION FOR LONG-TIME RESIDENCE OF SAME PRINCIPAL RESIDENCE - if the person buying the primary home lived in their primary residence for "any 5-consecutive-year period during the 8 year period ending on the date of [qualified] purchase" they also qualify for the credit under SEC.11(c)(1)(D)
Section 11(c)(1)(D) sets the maximum credit for long-time residents to $6,500
Section 11(c)(2) sets the maximium individual AGI to $125,000 and the maximum married couple AGI to $225,000
Section 11(d)(3) sets the maximum purchase price [not loan amount] to $800,000
There are other subsections specific to military personnel who are deployed found primarily in Section11(e)(E)
Section 12 is also pertinent but contains mostly clerical changes and restates the recipient of the credit must be at least 18 years of age at the time of purchase of the home.
IN SUMMARY
You must close before May 1, 2010 (so no later than April 30 2010), if you are not a "first time home buyer" (defined as someone who has not owned a primary residence during the last 36 months prior to the closing date) you must have lived in your primary residence at least 5 continuous years out of the 8 years preceding the closing date unless you enter into a binding contract before May 1, 2010 then you must close before July 1, 2010. Individuals may take advantage of the tax credit if you earn no more than $125,000 per year Adjusted Gross Income and married couples may not earn more than $225,000 AGI. Your sales price may not exceed $800,000 and you must be 18 years of age.
BIG DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT A TAX ATTORNEY OR ACCOUNTANT and everything you just read is my opinion on what the law says. Do not make any decisions based on the content of this blog post. Seriously, do not use this as a substitute for tax advice or legal advice.
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
Well, okay then. I guess you're paying cash because everybody who borrows money from a broker, lender or bank (regardless of their misleading advertisement) pays points. Simply defined the word points means a percentage. What they are a percentage of is the next question. And, in this case, they are a percentage of the loan amount.
For example if we are talking about $100,000 and we say "one point" we mean "one percent" or $1,000 (one thousand dollars). If we say "two points" we mean "two percent" or $2,000 (two thousand dollars).
Since we know what a point is (1 point = 1 percent) and we know what it is based on (the loan amount) why exactly are points charged and why is it a good or bad thing? To the mortgage insider there are lots of points. There are origination points, there are discount points, there are yield points and there are service release points. Some of those points are directly visible to the borrower(s) and some are not so let's take them in order.
Origination Points - this is your loan officer's paycheck. She does not get it all (usually) but rather splits it with other people. Even if she does keep it all she has some other fees to pay out of it to her broker or lender. When people say, "this is a no point loan" they are not talking about this fee. They are talking about ...
Discount Points - this is the fee to buy the interest rate down. In plain language if you are offered an interest rate of 5.5% and you want the interest rate at 5% you will pay discount points or buy down points. On a purchase loan this may be paid by the buyer(s) or the seller(s) where permitted. Again 1 point = 1% of the LOAN AMOUNT. This is the fee almost everyone except mortgage industry participants are talking about when they say, "I'm not paying any points!"
The tricky part about "discount points" is it costs more than 1% of the loan amount to "buy down the rate" 1% - so you don't pay 1% of the loan amount to go from 5.25% to 4.25%
An example of discount points not intending to confuse: Say your loan amount is $100,000 and the interest rate is 5.25% but you want a rate of 4.625% - every loan officer will know exactly what these numbers mean. If they don't then they are not, in fact, a real loan officer. But I digress. The RATE column is obvious. The 25d column means once that rate is "locked" the file MUST be closed in 25 days or a rate lock extension must be purchased.
The -1.000 in the 5.250 row and 25d column means there is a cost to the borrower of -1% of the loan amount. Since the cost is negative one percent that means one percent comes back. Generally that would be shown on the mortgage broker's HUD1 as 1% of the loan amount in YSP. So if it is a $100,000 loan that would be $1,000 to the mortgage broker. You won't see it at all if it goes to the bank or lender.
The 2.125 in the 4.625 row and 25d column means the rate of 4.625% will cost 2.125 percent of the loan amount PLUS the 1% of the loan amount the broker won't be making. So in this case it will cost the borrower 3.125% of the loan amount to "buy down the rate" to 4.625% (there are many other ways to slice this pie but you don't have the patience and I don't have the time for the full book version :)
In the above example on a $100,000 loan to "buy down the rate" from 5.25% to 4.625% would cost the borrower $3,125 - on a refinance this could come from the new loan and on a purchase it can be paid by the seller or the buyer depending on loan guidelines.
Yield Points - called Yield Spread Premium, are probably the most maligned and possibly misunderstood "fees" there are. Funny thing is it's not a fee. What many bankers, bloggers and ill informed talk show hosts (plus a so-called "Real Estate Expert" on About.com) either do not understand or simply choose to lie to you about is these are the only "back end points" ever revealed to the borrower. Has YSP been abused? You bet! But bankers abuse rates and never tell you how much profit they are making. I know, I are one. I have also been a broker. If your rate is competitive you really should not care at all about these points. If you disagree or do not understand call me and we can chat.
Release Points - called Service Release Premium, are the most ignored points even though they are virtually identical to Yield Spread Premium listed above. For secondary marketers and mortgage bankers there is a huge difference between the two but to the end user really the are very similar. Both affect the interest rate paid by the borrower and the profit made by the lender/banker/broker. What should matter to borrowers is 5% 5.5% 6% - whatever the rate is and your other closing costs.
One of the big problems with mortgages is so many people have no idea how to shop for one. They think if they know the words, "points" "rate" and "closing costs" they know everything needed to know. What they really do when they ask those questions in the wrong manner is tell a savvy loan officer just how little they know. They would be better served by saying, "tell me about your mortgages and all the costs associated".
You are going to pay points one way or another. Either you are going to pay a higher interest rate, your loan amount is going to be increased or you are simply going to pay them exactly as they are.
Let me interject a note about "hidden fees". It is not that hard to have "hidden fees" on loans but even with "hidden fees" you can still shop if you look at the three most important numbers: How much money you have to bring to the closing table, your total loan amount and your monthly payment (and whether or not that payment can ever change). For example if your loan is $100,000 and you have to bring $10,000 to the closing table and your monthly payment is $500 for one loan but for another loan of $100,000 you have to bring $20,000 to the table and your monthly payment is $550 - YOU have to decide which one works for you. A true mortgage professional can advise you. Don't fall for some hopped up claims like, "all of our fees are up front" or "we have flat rate mortgage fees". So? So what? That in no way qualifies that company as more honest or trust worthy.
If you want to know how to shop for a mortgage, even if you are not in my market area, I will be happy to speak with you. Just give me a call and ask! Maybe I should write another post about how to compare mortgages ...
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
Every loan officer who has done their job for more than a week or so has heard the question. Some loan officers avoid it altogether by simply not sending the Truth In Lending (TIL) until they absolutely are required by law to do so. Why? Because in the top left corner in prominent font is a number that confuses almost every borrower and non-financial insider - the Annual Percentage Rate (APR).
The APR disclosure requirement was sort of a good idea when it came out back in 1968 when there was pretty much just one type of home loan: a 30 year fixed interest mortgage. With time and exotic mortgage solutions the APR became highly obfuscated and even a tool of obfuscation.
Recent changes to the RESPA laws and the injection of the Mortgage Disclosure Information Act (MDIA - call the Mediah by insiders) was supposed to fix what has been broken for years. What it is doing, however, is bottleknecking the process for almost everyone who is using a mortgage to purchase or refinance a home.
The main problem and fault with the APR for the last several years has been the ease of manipulating it by how closing costs and other mortgage related fees can be hidden in the loan or rate to obfuscate the APR. The idea behind the forced disclosure of the APR was to give an apples to apples comparison of mortgage costs. It doesn't work, hasn't worked and another ignorant piece of legislation designed more to give the appearance of help rather than actual help like MDIA is just another road block to home ownership for home buyers.
If every mortgage was exactly the same, all closing costs had to be line itemed and there were no variations in terms them APR would be a more valuable but still useless tool. Here again the intelligent homebuyer is punished because of the few ignorant ones who refuse to take a moment and look at what is really important about home finance. Am I bitter? No. I'm still going to be making home loans and my clients are still going to be paying for them. It's just that sometimes it will take them longer to get to the closing table if anything changes with the loan post application and prior to close - in some cases.
In a nutshell the MDIA law says if the APR changes more than .125% (an 1/8th of a point of interest) then the disclosures must be resent and a period of no less than 3 business days must expire. This means changes to any of the APR tracked fees or loan amount. The law does not say whether or not this applies if the APR decreases or increases just if it changes. Some lenders are redisclosing in both directions other only if the APR increases more than .125%
A quick definition of the APR is the actual interest rate plus the other mortgage associated costs expressed as a percentage of the loan amount over the life of the loan. For example if you have a $100,000 loan and your APR included costs are $3,500 you would first find out what percentage of $100,000 is made up by $3,500. This one is simple it's 3.5% but that has to be annualized so divide it by 12 to get .29% and add that to your initial interest rate - let's say 6% to get 6.29%. So in this scenario our interest rate is 6% but our APR is 6.29% - so you can imagine why people see that TIL and call immediately and say, "I thought I was getting a 6% loan!" When you indicate that is correct they invariably say, "But this paper says 6/29%" When explained to the masses they simply say "oh" and just forget about it!
So what fees affect the APR? I'm so glad you asked. But the answer is variable by the state wherein the property is located. I can give you the ones for Georgia as a reference but your state may be different. Remember all of these fees may not actually be on your loan but if they are they are to be added to the APR.
Georgia APR fees include: processing, underwriting, origination, discount points, broker fees, commitment fee, lock fee, attorney's fee, wire fee, disbursement fee, warehouse fee, amortization schedule fee, copy fee, fax fee, courier fee. There are other fees that may be charged but these are the fees that affect the APR. (These fees may even change from lender to lender believe it or not.)
If you are an agent, home owner or home buyer with questions about APR feel free to call me anytime on my cell at 678-439-8683 and I'll be happy to help you as much as possible.
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
This one kind of goes along with "When Can We Close?" from a couple of years ago and another "How Long Does It Take To Close Today?" from a few weeks ago. It is further inspired by feedback from many agents and clients over the last many years.
First it is important to understand the difference between a pre-approval, an approval and a clear-to-close. That explanation is given here at "Pre-Approval, Approval, Conditional, Cleared - What the ____?!" Let me augment that by saying you, the home buyer, have a lot of power over how certain your pre-approval is.
Pre-approvals are generally good for 30 days. This almost always depends on lender guidelines. To make sure you are getting a real pre-approval listen to how long it takes to get your pre-approval and to what you supply to the loan officer before you receive your pre-qualification letter.
Recently I received a call from one of the largest banks in the world and the phone call started by telling me I had been pre-approved for a very low interest rate to refinance my current home. When I asked the phone bank operator to send me the pre-qualification he said he would have to ask just a few questions first. There was probably only a pre-qualification based on my credit score and estimated property value. Worth nothing.
A real pre-qualification can take as little as a couple of hours and a seasoned loan professional can easily guide you through the process. Anyone who gives you a pre-qualification over the phone without having seen any evidence to prove what you have said is giving you a decision based on credit and payment history with your statements only. This type of pre-qualification is what gives loan officers a bad name.
If you are thinking about going shopping for a new home you should get pre-qualified before you even begin. Unless you have significant income, strong credit and payment history and plenty of cash you need to know what the lender is going to offer based on your specific qualifications. The loan officer will also be able to tell you which property types and costs are okay for which loan products.
To sum it up - get qualified first then start shopping. Otherwise you may be wasting your time and the time of others as well.
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
Here are the facts about FHA and foreclosures on credit:
If there is a foreclosure on the borrower's credit (any of the borrowers) it must be at least 36 months previous in most cases. There are a very limited number of instances which would allow a foreclosure to have been within less than 36 months (from application date) and the lender may continue to underwrite the application even though it may have not been approved by the Automated Underwriting System (AUS).
Those events are pretty much limited to:
Death or serious illness of a wage earner.
Yes, that's it. HUD 4155.1 REV-5, the guideline from HUD which governs this topic, states:
D. Previous Mortgage Foreclosure. A borrower whose previous principal residence or other real property was foreclosed or has given a deed-in-lieu of foreclosure within the previous three years is generally not eligible for a new FHA-insured mortgage. However, if the foreclosure was the result of documented extenuating circumstances that were beyond the control of the borrower and the borrower has re-established good credit since the foreclosure, the lender may grant an exception to the three-year requirement. Extenuating circumstances include serious illness or death of a wage earner, but do not include the inability to sell the house because of a job transfer or relocation to another area.
So, while it is possible to be qualified for an FHA mortgage with a foreclosure on the buyer's or refinancer's credit within the last 36 months the reasons for making that exception are very narrow. Meanwhile please don't try and qualify your clients yourself as there are many , many caveats which may be overlooked even by the most estudious.
As a seasoned loan officer I don't even deny an applicant just because I see a foreclosure without hearing the full story and submitting the information to the AUS. Then again I like my application to close ratio to stay as high as possible within the lending guidelines available to me.
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Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
Looking for a great place to live with some of the best values in America? Look no farther because I am sitting in it right now keyboarding this post to you! On October 6th NBC's Today Show with Al Roker highlighted Marietta, Georgia as the number 4 place in America to buy a home and get the most "bang for your buck".
I happen to agree with them because I live here, have lived here my entire life except a little college stint, and I am very actively involved in my community and lending here. During the boom builders constructed some very beautiful homes which in turn emptied a number of existing homes and left us with a surplus of larger, newer homes. In fact on October the 12th I wrote about "My Home, Marietta, Georgia" which was a featured article here on Active Rain.
We were hit late in the price drops but when we got hit we got hit hard! Sarasota is number one, San Fransisco is number two, is number three is Lansing (another great city), and Marietta (that's me) is number four. By the way, the Gone With The Wind Museum is way down on the list of "pride and joy" of this community. Seriously, only an outsider would say that! Don't get me wrong, it's very cool but the life is in that old town area is very vibrant and that is just one of hundreds of attractions in that immediate area.
You can watch the video here on the City of Marietta's website. When you get finished call me. I'm not a real estate agent - I'm a very seasoned home lender based right here for my entire career in Marietta, Georgia. 3300 homes in the Atlanta/Marietta area have been financed across my desk I have a pretty decent "handle" on the market here.
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683
So you have the down payment - sourced and seasoned just like it needs to be. All saved up, stored away nicely in the bank for the last 60 days, and ready to be invested into a home. The closing costs are there, too, and all perfectly documented for the last two months. Great job! Your down payment and closing costs are in order. This is something to be proud of!
It's always something that needs to be covered right up front. When the loan officer is taking the application and they know what it requires for down payment and the approximate closing costs they also need to calculate in the speficied amount of reserves. What are reserves? Straightforward it is enough to conver the principal, interest, taxes, and insurance (at a minimum).
Most loans require two months of reserves on the purchase of a primary residence and as much as six months (PITIA) on investment property purchases. But it's not enough they be available they must also be sourced and seasoned just like the down payment and closing costs.
Here's a little good news, though: reserves don't have to be in cash form. In fact 100% of the following can be counted for reserves:
Stocks, bonds, mutual funds, U.S. government securities, and other securities that are traded on an exchange or marketplace general available to the public (such as NYSE, NASDAQ, Midwest SE, CBOT, or OTC) whose price can be readily verified through financial publications.
Cash-value life insurance (rather than face-value) that is verified. The borrower must be the owner of the policy and not the beneficiary.
Personal IRA and SEP-IRA accounts that are owned by the borrower and verified.
The borrower’s portion of undistributed trust funds.
Additionally a portion of the value of the following may be counted as reserves:
401(k), KEOGH, 403(b) and other IRS-qualified employer plans may be counted as reserves; however, to account for withdrawal penalties and estimated taxes, 70% of the vested amount of the account should be used to determine the borrower’s available reserves. The borrower will be required to provide documentation that the funds are accessible for withdrawal. If the retirement account only allows for withdrawals in the event of the borrower’s employment termination, retirement, or death, these funds should not be considered as reserves.
Savings bonds may be counted at 100% of face value if mature. If the bonds are not mature, the amount counted towards reserves is based on the redeemable value at the time of underwriting.
Ask your Loan Officer about reserves. If you are an agent and want help understanding these please never hesitate to call me or have your client call me. I'm more than happy to help even if I do not have the ability to assist in your area.
Ken Cook - Georgia - FHA, USDA, VA and Conventional Home Loans (678) 439-8683